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2026年3月3日巴黎當(dāng)?shù)貢r(shí)間,Saint Laurent 2026-2027秋冬系列大秀啟幕。恰逢品牌經(jīng)典吸煙裝誕生60周年、創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)Anthony Vaccarello執(zhí)掌十周年,這場(chǎng)秀以“克制與張力”重構(gòu)當(dāng)代優(yōu)雅。靈感源自Romy Schneider的優(yōu)雅倦怠與Tennessee Williams戲劇的欲望脆弱,妝容復(fù)刻七八十年代巴黎風(fēng)情。全系列剔除冗余,放大必要元素,以雕塑般立體輪廓與極致克制,呈現(xiàn)Saint Laurent式性感與力量的新詮釋。秀場(chǎng)選址巴黎現(xiàn)代主義空間,玻璃、木質(zhì)與皮革構(gòu)筑場(chǎng)景,中央復(fù)刻Yves Saint Laurent私宅雕像,遠(yuǎn)處埃菲爾鐵塔若隱若現(xiàn),融合巴黎浪漫與品牌歷史。設(shè)計(jì)上,Vaccarello以當(dāng)代視角解構(gòu)吸煙裝:?jiǎn)闻?雙排扣黑西裝線條鋒利,斜肩收腰設(shè)計(jì)融合權(quán)力感與松弛氣質(zhì),十四套變體貫穿秀場(chǎng),黑白主調(diào)點(diǎn)綴深棕、法藍(lán),詮釋“少即是多”哲學(xué)。硅涂層蕾絲挺括如雕塑,乳膠材質(zhì)化身“保護(hù)鎧甲”,羊剪絨外套束帶收腰營(yíng)造安全感,絲質(zhì)slip dress與oversize大衣疊穿,平衡輕盈與厚重。
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